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Alpine :: SWE-1043 :: $49.00

Alpine SWE-1043

Item# 19510

10" 750W 4-Ohm Subwoofer

Sorry, this product is no longer available.

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  • Dealed box volume: .75-1.5 cubic feet
  • Ported box volume: 1.0-2.0 cubic feet
  • Priced per speaker
  • Subwoofers are usually sold as a single unit unless otherwise noted.
  • Authorized Internet Dealer
*Warranty: 1 Year Manufacturer warranty.
This item is accompanied by a manufacturer's warranty. If it is found to be defective, it may be returned to for replacement within 30 days from the original date of purchase with proper return authorization. After the 30 day time period, products must be returned to their original manufacturer for the remainder of the manufacturer's warranty period.

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   nate dogg From monroe la
These mfs slam!

   Mark From Heathsville VA

Best speaker for the money. Hard hitting workhorse. Clear on every base hit. I challenge anyone to find a better sub for the money.

   Jeff From Tucson

I listen to jazz, blues, alternative, rap, everything except polka, screamo, and country. 2 of these powered with a 1st gen 225 hcca @ 15.2v, in 1.25 cu. ft. each, ported @ 20 hz, and am absolutely blown away. As far as the rest of my system, I have AuraSound NS6 mids that I paid $36 for, and original motorola piezo tweeters that I paid about $30 for. My mids are in .3 cu. ft. with a peerless 5.25 passive radiator, high-passed at 75 hz., and the piezo's have 56 ohm series resistors, 10 ohm parallel resistors, and 2.2 ufd caps to cross them over at roughly 6.5k.

My hcca says 50wrms, my old-school sony booster/eq says 50w max. I am getting about 400 to the subs, and thanks to rebuilding the amp section of my equalizer with tda8920 amp chips, and using a dc/dc converter to feed them 28v, I am getting about 37x4 at way less than 1%thd. My Galaxy S4 is my head unit, going to a clarion 4 band peq, then a volume control to the eq/amp. 

If you can understand a basic electrical circuit, get a decent battery/capacitor like ocs sells that can take 16v, put it with your amps, run a 4,6, or 8 ga. from it to your alternator, not your car battery. Look online for a high current stud diode, and put it between your stock battery charging wire, and the battery somewhere after teaching yourself enough to not mess it up. The diode will drop the voltage going to your battery, your alternator will up it's output voltage to compensate, and ta-da! you have about 15.5 volts going to the battery by your amps. I take no responsibility if you mess this up. A couple volts can make a huge difference in output.